Food market in the Vietnamese ghetto

Looking for tofu, sprouts, Thai peppers, lemon grass, that huge delightfully stinky fruit the name of which escapes me at the moment (duradot?), soy milk, or rice vodka? For this and much more along the same lines, plus an experience in authenticity I recommend the Vietnamese market at No. 11 Семнадцатый проезд Марьиной рощи (Semnadtsaty proyezd Mar’yinoy roshi).

Here is an example of my first (February 3, 2010) catch there, when I found, on the third attempt, where the Vietnamese got exiled after the Cherkizovsky market pogrom.

A big bag of smelly bamboo for 90 roubles ($3US), bean sprouts for 40 roubles ($1.35) for a huge bag of the freshest stuff I’ve seen in this city, soybean paste for 70 roubles/pack, which is half of what it costs in a supermarket if at all available, parsley-like grass the name of which I don’t know, sea weed for sushi for 40 roubles/pack (usually sells for at least 100 elsewhere), a piece of exotic two foot long green pumpkin, small peppers that I haven’t seen from my Canada days and, of course, tofu. In the center of this bliss is a bottle of  rice vodka for 200 roubles. At this price it has to be smuggled.

The fact that I’m supporting  illegal activity is one extra source of joy for me.

The above prices are from 2010. Now, in the middle of 2012, they are a touch higher sometimes. Tofu is the same, 30 roubles for a large brick. Rice vodka is still 200 roubles although it does not seem to be as ultimately delicious as it was only a couple of years ago.

Not much has changed since then. Even the rise of prices has been minimal from that first visit till now, three years later, in January 2013.

Fellow vegetarians please be warned that tofu is kept in somewhat unappetizing environment. Animals seem to be killed right there too although I think it is done early in the morning.

Avocadoes are 30 roubles each ($1) at the Vietnamese market while elsewhere they generally sell for 60-70.

These went up to 50-60 roubles. – Jan. 2013

Finding the place may be a challenge. The nearest subway stop is Dmitrovskaya. My guess is that walking time is about 30 min. and that the appropriate Gypsy cab offering is 100 roubles (about $3.40 as of February 2010).

Soy milk at 30 roubles ($1) per bottle.

If in Moscow I can give you a tour of the place. Come to Metro Alexeyevskaya, where I’m normally based. From there it is a few minutes by car or, weather permitting, bike.


Food market in the Vietnamese ghetto — 6 Comments

  1. Rob on September 26, 2012 at 1:58 pm said:Edit
    Great story! Sure made my life in Moscow more tolerable. To get there from Timiryazyevksya: “Marshrutka” 112m or 319m back.

    From Rizhskaya: Bus No.????? Sorry, forgot, will look it up when there next time.

    Great story! Sure made my life in Moscow more tolerable. To get there from Timiryazyevksya: “Marshrutka” 112m or 319m back.

  2. Glenda on October 4, 2012 at 8:08 pm said:Edit

    I’ve made a few attempts to find this legendary market. Can I, Pasha, сесть вам на хвост (join you, the latest addition to my informal Russian) when you next go there? Also I know you’ve fallen victim of misanthropy and anthropophobia and no longer welcome guests but perhaps you’ll make an exception for me for old times sake? You may not remember you but I was around in your Izmailovo days..

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